There are not many coastal areas left in Cornwall which remain completely free of all the commercial trappings which come with tourism, but the lovely twin villages of Kingsand and Cawsand perched on the Rame Peninsula, are among the few exceptions.
The narrow streets with white washed cottages, leading down to the small sandy coves and the spectacular views across Plymouth Sound and out into The Channel, all help to make this a very special place. Often dubbed 'the forgotten corner' of South East Cornwall, it has remained almost timeless. It is a gem still waiting to be discovered.
Twinned with Porspoder in France, Kingsand and Cawsand are in a conservation area of outstanding natural beauty with special scientific interest (SPI), even boasting their own rare orchid, and it has a long and interesting history.
It is said that rampaging Turks once landed on the shoreline and captured all the fishermen who they took away to be slaves. Hence the name Turk Town, which became the name of the annual carnival which thrived up until about four years ago. These days the fishing fleet is made up of two crabbers, owned by Tony Jago (Bosloe) and Malcolm Baker (Shiralee), both of Kingsand.
Even more fascinating is the fact that Kingsand was once part of Devon, being divided from its very close Cornish neighbour of Cawsand by a small stream. It wasn't until it was decided in the 19th century that the River Tamar would become the natural boundary between the two counties, that the small divided communities were united. Near the bottom of Garrett Street is the house known as Devon Corn on one side, and the aptly named Halfway House Inn on the other, both of which mark the old division.
Thriving
Although described as twin villages, they are in fact one thriving community, and at the present moment, from the youngest residents to the more senior citizens, are involved in some major works to mark the Millennium. If you go along to the Kingsand Institute on most days, you will find groups of people busily working away on a spectacular tapestry which is an aerial view of the two villages. When this has been completed, it will finally be edged with about 70 cottages, two of which will be dedicated to the late Jean Sheldrake, a talented artist who was much involved at the tapestry's beginning.
Many folk are involved in the work, including Bob Cann and Ron Hoblyn who made the framework, Kate Shepherd and Jenny Glasspool who did the original painting, and Roy Sullivan who helped to trace the picture on to the canvas. Then there are all the dedicated needleworkers. When finished the tapestry will be on permanent display in the Institute. The building was formerly the Village Hall, and the landmark clock and tower was erected by the parish to commemorate the coronation of King George V on June 22, 1911.
At Fourlanesend Primary School, where the head teacher is Andrew Kayes, the industrious pupils are designing tiles of the maritime and natural history of the villages which are being made by local potter Zoe Coles. They will be erected on The Bound at Cawsand in the Ferry Shelter, the official opening taking place on November 5, and the parish is very proud of the fact that it was awarded £2,000 from the Millennium Lottery Fund "Awards for All", especially for this project.
The Women's Institute are compiling a fascinating book of Millennium memories, to be illustrated by Roy Sullivan and Jill Warwick, and primary pupil Marigold Thorpe drew the winning design in a competition organised by the parish council, for a commemorative mug, to be distributed to each child.
Charity
Parish councillor Sarah Riggs, who together with husband Dave, is mine host of the Halfway House Inn, managed by Justine Tidmarsh, says Kingsand and Cawsand is a very community spirited place, which raises a lot of money for charity, and where people, both the locals and those who own holiday homes in the area, mix together very well. 'It is a very nice place to live' she said.
Sarah said the parish council is very active in forming a regeneration plan for the villages, with newly elected Ivor Nicholls liaising with Caradon Council with a view to grants. They want to produce a community orchard and at the Village Green, which is presently cared for voluntarily by residents, they would like to provide some new seating and a low stone Cornish wall. Also on the agenda are new street lights which are more in keeping with a conservation area.
Most important to Kingsand and Cawsand is the new sewage scheme due to start at any time which was brought forward by South West Water by five years, due to a huge community effort involving a petition. When the works are completed, which will involve digging up much of The Square in Cawsand, it is hoped to make it more attractive by re-introducing cobbles and making a communal area around the old water fountain, which was given to the parish by Caroline, Countess of Mount Edgcumbe in 1871.
Also making sure the villages are not part of a 'forgotten corner' is the Rame Association of Traders, which formed about three years ago when it was discovered the Peninsula had been left off a map of South East Cornwall. Secretary Dave Riggs said they have put the villages on the internet, and among other things have produced accommodation, and traders and services lists. 'We are promoting the villages rather than individuals' said Dave, 'and we are hoping for a £6,000 grant from the Key Fund to continue our work for the benefit of the whole community'.
The villages are well served by local shops, which include The Village Stores (VG Late Stop), run by Stephen and Pam Michael who are much involved in community life, and Shipshape, which combines with the Post Office, run by John and Caroline Pape. There is Bits and Bobs the gift shop, and the popular little 'Shop in the Square' at Cawsand.
In Garrett Street is Cawsand Bakery, owned by David and Cathy Mayhew, who run the shop and tea rooms with the help of mum Mrs Sally Mayhew. The shop opened about 12 years ago, and every day David bakes to order for local residents. He is the only craft baker between Rame and Lostwithiel, using sour dough with everything being hand made, and the result is delicious.
The tea room is decorated with shelves full of old bottles, some found at the bottom of the house wells, and others brought up from the seabed by local diving lads, and all manner of old fashioned larder items. 'People find things and just add them to our collection' said Sally. Fitting snugly into a former fireplace is the original harmonium used at the old Wesleyan Chapel on The Green, before it was demolished. It was given to Cathy as a gift when she was just ten.
The parishioners are served by three churches. The Vicar is Rev Robin Doyle who is in charge of St Andrew's in Cawsand and the church at Rame, and the Methodists worship at Cawsand Congregational Church in Garrett Street, with its imposing building at the sea's edge.
The villages are known for their friendly pubs, there being seven all told. These begin with the Halfway, with the English Tourist Board three crowns accolade, and a mention in the The Good Pub Guide 1998, but everyone will tell you that you can be sure of good food in all the hostelries. They are the Devonport Inn along The Cleave, The Rising Sun, Boatel, Old Ship Inn up along the top of Garrett Street, and down in Cawsand the quaint Smugglers Inn which dominates The Square, and the Cawsand Bay Hotel and Galleon Bar, home of Cawsand Sailing Club.
Locals
Mine hosts are Bruce Cooke, a retired Brixham fisherman, and his wife Sue who took over the hotel two years ago. They enjoy meeting up with the locals, and with the many visitors who arrive at Cawsand on the Western Maid, during the summer boat trips from the Mayflower Steps on Plymouth's Barbican.
One of their most popular residents is Alfie, an eight year old Cocker Spaniel owned by chef David Trethewey, who is a big draw to visitors who like to take photographs of him in his smart kennel complete with window boxes.
Cawsand is also home to Rame Gig Club, which was founded by Tony Jago seven years ago, who is the chairman. The Earl of Mount Edgcumbe is the president, and the club, which has just had a mixed season, has crews from U14s up to Veterans. Typical of the villages' community spirit, it took little over a day to collect enough money from residents for the construction of the first gig, Spirit of Rame, and when funding from the Sports and Arts Council arrived, some of it was used to build the second gig, Minadhu. Club member Neil Griffen, well known for his collection of old pictures of the Rame Peninsula, says Minadhu means 'black rocks' in Gaelic, and The Green at Kingsand is also called The Minadhu by locals.
Another aspect of the community all pulling together is the village hall, which was converted in 1991 from the former St Paul's Church with much voluntary labour. Bob Cann is the bookings secretary, and says the hall is used so much it is difficult to accommodate all the activities. These include the Kingfisher Nursery, badminton, the youth club, table tennis, art lessons, dancing classes and lots more.
Bob is also a member and librarian for the last 13 years of the popular Rame Peninsula Choir, which rehearses at the hall. It was formed in 1976 by the landlord of the Rising Sun, the late Dave Long, and the musical director is John Woodfield. It has an offshoot known as the Halfway Harmony. This was started by the late Bill Russell, former landlord of the Halfway House Inn, who used to invite some choir members to 'sing for their supper' every Wednesday after choir practise. This tradition has been gladly carried on by Dave Riggs, whose seven years at the pub makes him the longest serving landlord in the district.
Winning
Many other clubs and organisations thrive in the area including the Rame Peninsula Flower Club, which has helped with the winning of the Best Kept Village Award, scouts and cubs, camera club, Twinning Association, Neighbourhood Watch, Pensioners' Voice, the Wine Circle and many charitable committees. Among these are the Cancer Research Campaign, Friends of Mount Edgcumbe, Marie Curie Cancer Care, Mission to Fishermen, Mission to Seamen, National Women's Register and the RNLI.
In Fore Street is the central car park, which is owned and run by Mark Skinner. Adjacent to the park is the cottage in which Mark was born and in which he still lives, with his uncle living next door.